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documenting the birth (and death) of edzo's burger shop


Jan 13

GoFunding Me

 I've had a lot of mixed feelings about the idea of starting a GoFundMe to help me make the transition from running Edzo's for the past 15 years to whatever may come next.

As many know, my restaurant Edzo's Burger Shop closed after 15 years of burger-fries-and-shake excellence in downtown Evanston. We had a good run, but our crucial weekday business just never picked up since Covid.

When we announced were closing, the outpouring of support from the local community during the final week really made me realize how much restaurants can mean to people and how much being a part of a community of supportive, like-minded folks means to me.

I created Edzo's as an expression of myself and the things I love; Chicago-style hot-dog-stand food, classic rock, a 70's retro vibe, and a hands-on approach in which I treat each customer as if they were a guest in my home. That includes good hospitality, but it has also meant saying no sometimes, plenty of good-natured banter, and even taking a customer to task once in a while for being rude or inconsiderate.

Plenty of people didn't care for my 'no-frills' "customer isn't always right" approach to hospitality, but those that got it became regulars and we've had many wonderful relationships with our longtime repeat customers over the years.

So when we announced we were closing, hundreds and hundreds of regulars came to have their last garlic fries or char burger, and one thing that really struck me is that I put an authentic version of myself, my principles, and my values, out there, unfiltered, and ALL these people really responded to it.

What an honor. Customer after customer pulled out their phones and showed me photos of all the times they came for hot dogs and fries after their kid's soccer, their birthday patty melt, or the time they brought a Nutella shake for their wife in the hospital after she'd just given birth. We had fed people, sure, and we'd all had some good times, but we also had become a part of this community's MEMORIES. A lot of folks so appreciated the vibe, the food and the culture that I had created, that sincere expression of myself, that they chose to do us the amazing honor of including us in their lives' narratives.

I don't want that to end. So I have been searching for new locations around the North Shore where we might be able to replicate the same success we had with Edzo's for the first 15 years.

But finding the right spot is never easy. We need a black-iron exhaust run because we're working with burger grease and fryers. Landlords want tenants to pay full rent, plus the entire share of property taxes on the prorated space, plus they expect tenants to foot the bill for the build out despite the fact that they'll be keeping all the fixtures and improvements if/when the tenancy ends.

Don't get me started.

And since Edzo's is closed, I do not have an income myself. I'm scared. I don't know how I'm going to pay my mortgage and bills. I've been driving Instacart the last few weeks as I finish at the Sherman Ave. location, selling off as much of the stuff as I can, looking at potential new spaces, meeting with people from economic development departments of various suburbs... It's a lot.

If I end up having to get a job in order to not lose my house, I know it's going to quickly take over nearly all of my time/headspace and I think it will be very difficult to give the time/attention needed to finding a new space to relocate Edzo's and further develop it.

So...that would, I guess, be the justification I would be making in order to be asking people for a charitable donation to help me pay my bills so I can work toward re-opening.  Seems a little presumptuous, honestly.  For now, I think I'm not gonna do it.  With everything I see going on in the world right now, I don't feel right about asking for charitable donations for this.  

I truly believe in my heart that restaurants are a crucial element of community and serve a valuable societal value that's worth many times what folks spend there in dollars.  And that eventually we will come to realize that if we want good restaurants in our communities, we will need to support them in ways beyond just going and spending money on food.  I'm not sure what format that will be in, everything seems to be evolving right now.  I've toyed with setting up some sort of "subscriber" model in which folks pay a monthly fee in order to show their support and in exchange, they get some extra "insider" benefits and perks and there are a few examples of restaurants doing something similar.

So something will evolve, I think to serve the goal of keeping good restaurants serving communities that value them even during times of financial hardship or societal disruption.

Read More 1 Comment | Posted by Eddie Lakin edit post
Jan 12

Existing in the Shit

A squirrelly little grill cook named Rico who I worked with on the hot line of a steakhouse quietly told me once, in the midst of a busy service when we had 30+ steaks on the grill, different cuts, all started at different times and needing to be cooked to different degrees of doneness, with more tickets constantly streaming out of the printer..."I love being in the shit!  That's when time stops and I can really just exist!"

That stayed with me.  It was a memorable moment for me.  Because my life in restaurants has always been about navigating this strange dichotomy between control and chaos.   At the time, I thought he was crazy...maybe on drugs or something.   But I came to understand what he meant.

 Working the line on a busy Saturday teaches you a lot of things;  communication skills, efficiency, economy of movement, how to prioritize... and how to keep your mind calm and still when things feel crazy and everyone else is freaking out.

And that's a skill that I think has served me well in life generally, in addition to in restaurant kitchens.  

All my life I have been able to exist in the unknown, chaotic spaces without freaking out.  The idea is, like in the kitchen, when shit is flying all around you, just keep your head down, don't lose focus, and work through it.  Trust the process.  Ignore the noise.  You'll get there eventually, even if you're not sure where 'there' is right then.

When my first marriage ended I decided to take a leap and go to Europe without much more than a backpack and some chef's whites.  I only had "concepts of a plan", but I ended up living in Barcelona for a year, finding a great job I loved working for a chef I consider a mentor, and living in an apartment owned by the folks who ran the restaurant I was working at only a block away.  It ended up better than I could've ever planned or imagined and I never would've done it at all if I had gotten hung up on having the right paperwork, the proper work visa, or feeling the need to ensure everything was all set up for me before committing to going.

So now, finding myself at another turning point in my life, not knowing what I'm going to do next, how I'm going to pay my bills beyond the few months my personal savings will provide, I feel surprisingly ok about it all.   

Of course, I still have moments of anxiety.  I'm making lists like a madman (immediate, short term, long term), and I might actually be spending more hours per day doing career stuff now than I was when I was running the restaurant, so it's not like it feels like I'm on vacation or anything.  

It's just that I'm not freaking out.  I'm not panicking.  I'm sitting in the shit.  Existing.  The sound of the ticket machine rattling barely registers, the expediter is screaming at me for the mid-rare ribeyes on 52, I have to pee, and I just realized I'm gonna need to run back to dry storage and refill my salt dredge when I'm already way behind.  But I'm still calm.  I've been here before.

Focus.  Do what I know how to do.  Calmly, but with purpose and a sense of urgency.  Head down.  Be my authentic self.  Use the skills and talents I know I have.  Do the work.  Be diligent.  Prepare but also be flexible.  The path will reveal itself.  Things will happen the way they're supposed to. 

Thanks, Rico.  I'll always remember you fondly for showing me how to exist in the shit and enjoy it. 



 



Read More 2 comments | Posted by Eddie Lakin edit post
Jan 12

So, What's Next?

originally written 12/16/2024

 

During the last week of business, everyone came out to pay their respects, have one last double with garlic fries, one last chocolate shake, and one last interaction with me.

On the first day, I left the online ordering open and allowed the new system to function so folks could order for themselves from the table, but it got to be too much and with our little staff, we quickly became overloaded.  So on the second day, I took it all back full circle, shut down all the online ordering, and everyone came through me, manually punching in their orders just like we did it on day 1.

It was so great to see all the familiar faces, so many regulars and friends who have been coming for over a decade now, and the outpouring of support and recognition really helped with how I'm feeling about the whole thing.

But that one question everyone asked..."so what's next?"  

And....I don't have an answer.  My non-answer became my answer as I navigated the hundreds of conversations.  "I honestly don't know," I'd say, "I've been so focused on trying to keep this place going".

 And that's true.  I just never entertained the idea that it would go under and I would need a plan B, and making a plan B somehow felt like giving up and admitting defeat. So I just never did.

My mind has gone 100 different directions since this all became real.  I've been so focused on the logistics of the shut down, moving stuff out, saying goodbyes, tying up loose ends, but my mind flashes onto sudden realizations now when I'm not expecting it.  So many possibilities.  I should relocate Edzo's somewhere on the North Shore to maintain the brand identity and good will I've built over 15 years.  I should capitalize on the social media reach with over 8,000 followers.  Maybe I'll do something something completely unrelated to restaurants!  Maybe I'll move to Portugal.  

I'm trying to allow all those flashes of ideas to hang in the air and consider them.  Part of me wants to run in completely the opposite direction of what I've been doing for the last decade and a half. Honestly, though, I'm scared that I won't be able to earn a living doing anything else.  I'm 55.  This is all I've done since my early 20's.  I'm freaking GOOD at it.  How can I change fields now, so late in my life?

So, for now, I've decided not to decide.

The good thing is, some of the good will and brand identity I've built over the years seems to be opening some doors.  I've been contacted by a bunch of people from a bunch of different suburbs about opening there.  That's very validating and feels promising, so I'll follow up with all of them and hopefully there's a situation that will make sense for all involved.  

Part of me, though, feels a newfound sense of freedom and relief as the days pass and I don't have to operate the restaurant.  15 years is a long time and I keep having these moments where I suddenly feel that "oh shit" feeling like I forgot something important--missed an employee's text, neglected to place a bread order--lurch for my computer or phone, and then realize...oh yeah, that's not a thing anymore.

I think I had forgotten how much I LIVED the existence of running Edzo's....being Edzo.  I did it for so long that I no longer remembered how it felt to just be Eddie Lakin, person, with a job.  Sure, your job is a part of your self-identity-formation in most cases, but when you own and operate your own business, it encompasses you entirely because you're never not doing it.  And when you're the everyday face of the restaurant, the brand for whom the eponymous restaurant is named, it's even more so.

 So to lose that is a little scary.  

Surprisingly, though, it doesn't feel scary at all.  I mean, sure, the financial part feels scary as in how am I going to make money to pay my bills stressful scary.  That's there, but I've been deep in that for a few years now.  The rest, though, feels more and more like a relief each time a new aspect of it dawns on me.  

I've been amazed at how much headspace has opened up for me and I'm finding that I'm taking care of other arenas of my life better.  I deep cleaned my bathroom.  I've been unpacking stuff that's been in boxes since I moved.... in 2017.  I've caught up on some reading (as in books!) and made a dent in my Netflix watch list instead of just putting on SVU at 9pm and falling asleep in 10 minutes.

I suppose that's all "self-care" and it's a good thing that I'm allowing myself some time for that after all of this.

So that's "what's next", I guess.  A period of rest, reassessment, gathering, sorting and thinking.  I'm going to honor the processes and allow myself the time to let it all unfold.  The layers of business-ownership peeling away, falling to the wayside, new ideas and fantasies that pop into my head (I want to learn glass-blowing!), old ideas that I made a note to pursue someday and shelved over the years...all of it.  I want to go down all the rabbit holes I didn't have time to go down during the last 15 years. 

I can't know what's next until I arrive in the new headspace that going through all these processes will bring about, so I'm not going to feel compelled to make a plan or a timeline right now.   When I get to the right fork in the road at the right moment, I will know.




Read More 1 Comment | Posted by Eddie Lakin edit post
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